Oh no...I'm off on another project again! :runaround:

I've managed to get some plans for the car, but I'm not happy about their accuracy, so I am redrawing them at the moment. No plans of the mechanicals exist, so I'm drawing those up as far as possible too.

I've decided I'm not starting the car until I have a good figure of the heroic driver, Frank Lockhart.

So far I've made his head using ordinary Bondo car body filler:

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/Frankie1small.jpg




Long way to go, but hope you like it!

Looks a bit like a mummy :-)
Nice work though. Carving a portrait is a special challenge! I'd prefer you carve on that Porsche though :-)

That sculpted head looks great compared to the pic next to it. Your a man of all talents.

nice choice! :bigthumb: he did have a large head LOL

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_2tKN8oD6rho/SmirMM8RfJI/AAAAAAAAIFI/t8n7wHWsXN0/s1600/1%2BStutz%2BBlack%2BHawk%2BSpecial%2B1928%2Ba.bmp
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_2tKN8oD6rho/SmirLxVoc0I/AAAAAAAAIFA/ZOnXlAULofw/s1600/1%2BStutz%2BBlack%2BHawk%2BSpecial%2B1928%2Bb.bmp
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_2tKN8oD6rho/SmirLuN5TzI/AAAAAAAAIE4/CF2CYwbqPfk/s1600/1%2BStutz%2BBlack%2BHawk%2BSpecial%2B1928%2Bc.bmp
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_2tKN8oD6rho/SmirLGKjfNI/AAAAAAAAIEw/uU6T-_eDFgY/s1600/1%2BStutz%2BBlack%2BHawk%2BSpecial%2B1928%2Bd.bmp
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_2tKN8oD6rho/SmirK7Nc6vI/AAAAAAAAIEo/lDUDDlUF8dE/s1600/1%2BStutz%2BBlack%2BHawk%2BSpecial%2B1928%2Bf.bmp

Cheers guys! He was quite a short chap (5'3") - hence the proportions! About to start modelling his torso - guess I should use special modelling clay etc. but will continue with the bondo for the moment! :biggrin:

Hi Cinqster,

Now that's a bit different! Excuse my ignorance, but what's under the bonnet - something huge and multi-cylinder, I guess? I assume we're looking at a full-detail project here, removable panels, etc? Excellent!

Best of luck, and I will be following with interest.

SB

Totally awesome subject and talent in one thread...I'm glued :D

I'm no expert but your carving of the head looks simply fantastic to me.

it had a small 181 cubic inch, 30 degree V 16 cylinder
helped push the car to 225 mph at daytona beach, feb 28/1928
in april does a record 199 mph one way speed, but unfortunately is his last ever
http://www.dieselpunks.org/profiles/blogs/lord-ks-garage-67-stutz

it had a small 181 cubic inch, 30 degree V 16 cylinder
helped push the car to 225 mph at daytona beach, feb 28/1928
in april does a record 199 mph one way speed, but unfortunately is his last ever
http://www.dieselpunks.org/profiles/blogs/lord-ks-garage-67-stutz

Nice website that! I'm quite a fan of Steampunk stuff so will keep my eye on that.

I became interested in this car because the engine was based on 2x Miller 91 engines. I've been lucky enough to see some Millers at Goodwood and the innovation, quality of engineering and design in their race cars is unbelievable for the time.

This is the footage of Lockhart's fatal second LSR attempt at Daytona. Lockhart had previously crashed the same car into the sea a few months before...he must have had 'big brass balls' as Alec Baldwin might say!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0y2b7mJqhs

Lockhart is clearly thrown from the car on the last roll. Legend has it that his body landed almost at the feet of his poor wife!

Undoubtedly, America lost a great talent by Lockhart's death at 25. He was a superb engineer and racer and who knows what he would have achieved in later years. Had he not been so unfortunate I'm sure he would have taken the Land Speed Record repeatedly.

A really cool car without a doubt :-)
I completely follow your comments about the Millers. I was blown away when i saw the yellow "Perfect Circle" car at Goodwood. The detailing on these cars is fantastic. At least as cool as racing Bugattis and there are many parallels between Ettore and Harry Millers endeavours.
I still bite my lower rear for not taking a pile of pictures of that car. I took many of other Millers since at Goodwood but i really hope to see that yellow 91 again. That begs to be modelled :-)

Well, I finally got some time to finish the plans last week and to start on the body. I'm still short of mechanical data for this beast so if anyone finds out more, please let me know!

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Build1.jpg

I've based the plans on the size of Frank Lockhart, the tyres available at the time, engine dimensions, a few photos and a cutaway drawing.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Build2.jpg

My initial idea was to use 1/8th drawings that were reproduced in the 70s, but I decided that the dimensions were taken from period photographs and no allowance was made for lens parallax, which distorted the bodywork.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Build3.jpg

The true engine dimensions would not fit the body plans so I redrew them, cut the parts out and photographed the car as a cardboard mockup, using various lenses. The drawings were tweaked until the proportions of the car fitted the old photographs when overlaid in Photoshop...very time consuming and hopefully worth it!!!

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Build4.jpg

The balsa then made another appearance, and off I went!

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Build5.jpg

The brass tubes were bonded into the frame for reference for my axles. They also serve as the locating pins for both halves of the body. This allows me to get one side correct before shaping the mirrored side - a lesson leant from my RS60 project.

Here, the body has been planked and drilled ready for good old P38 car body filler. I'm trying to aim for around 4mm depth to keep the strength in the master. The black ribs will be ground out and filled when it's looking OK.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Build6.jpg

I intend to build this as a curbside in fibreglass but hopefully will shape the spats from thin aluminium sheet. If I feel courageous, I may cast them in pewter.

Not sure how quick this project will be as I have a very hectic year on the way...keeping it as a curbside will hopefully speed things up a bit, who knows!:smile:

Oh, and I forgot to mention this thing is huge...600mm!

Oh heavens, a BEAUTIFUL car and EQUALY impresive work on the model AND figure head, the detail in the sculpting is superb. I once wanted to build the multi-media kit of this car in 1/24 scale some years ago, but never got it.....now I REALLY looking forward to this amazing project in a even more amazing scale, and after seeing your magnificent work in the Porsche, this one is a sure masterpiece in the works!!

I am really,really happy to see these vintage race cars been made in scale and in such a high standards...BRAVO!!

Great work so far, really impressive

I am really,really happy to see these vintage race cars been made in scale and in such a high standards...BRAVO!!

What an amazing project, this is the kind of wip that just begs for more pictures. I am even more impressed with the head, as if you carved that out of bondo. Man alive you got skills. Keep up the fantastic work.

Thanks guys!

I got it coated in bondo today and it's not a pretty sight right now! It's such as big area that it's akin to plastering (which I was never much good at!). I've probably used less than a kg of filler so far, which is a nice surprise (and cheapy cheap!)

Freezing cold outside today, so resorted to using a heat gun to cure the filler...not a good idea with balsawood!

Will post some more pics when it's sanded and looking less uuuurgly! :disappoin

Forgot to mention - finished his shoes today with the excess bondo.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Shoes.jpg

Wow, you amaze me...it is such a fine example of old-fashioned craftsmanship!

Ton

Well, we've had a couple of amazing sunny afternoons in the UK, so I have been making the most of the weather and sanding the Stutz bodywork in the garden. One side has been 'roughed in' and I'm quite pleased with it so far. Excuse the old school grainy black and white look, but I'm a graphics tart! :o)

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Bodysmallsideon.jpghttp://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Bodysmallfront.jpg

Looking good, lets hope the sun keeps shining. :)

This is looking GREAT....and in 1/8 scale WITH a figure of the driver....oh, this is truly one of my all time favorites threads at model forums!!!!!!

A couple more photo's.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/SBHS.jpg

I wasn't happy with the proportions of the model's bodywork, so I have started a process of tweaking the shape of the model, then photographing it using various lens sizes, until it looks like the period pictures I have.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/SBHSroughed.jpg

This is the body mocked-up with cardboard wheel spats after I have just added 11mm to the tail length. You can see that the under tray needs a steeper slope under the engine, which I'm about to correct. This part of the design is causing me some problems as I have drawn the Miller V16 plans using original dimensions and it would touch the bodywork with this slope unless it was tilted back. The engine was dry-sumped, probably to get it as low down in the chassis as possible?!

I take the model photos into Photoshop, layer them over the original pictures to see where the changes need to be. 1920s camera lenses were bad for image distortion, so I have to compensate for this distortion as I build.

Once I'm happy with the body proportions I then go back and change my previously drawn plans for future reference.

Hope this makes sense!:)

BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!!!!! This is coming along FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!

Not only is this one truly impressive model but the amount of skill you are showing is just as amazing. I also am very impressed with how far you are going addressing the len's of the 1920's. This is a whole new level of modelling and research. This build has inspired me to try and tackle a body from scratch which I have avoided for all the years I have been building models. Keep up the fantastic work.

Thanks for the compliments guys...glad you're enjoying it! :o)

Quaddy, I'm honoured if you have been motivated to go for a scratchbuild! You certainly have the skills for it judging by your excellent previous kit builds. Go for it - it's very rewarding. I have a stash of 1/6 and 1/12 Tamiya kits gathering dust, but am now totally hooked on making my own stuff.

Bare in mind, this is only my second scratchbuild and my methods are probably a bit unorthadox, but give us a shout if you want some advice! I have no idea how pro-builders approach their projects (finding out the hard way is all part of the fun).

I would go for making the body in two halves, which I know pro's do. This gives you the opportunity to get one half correct and not make mistakes on both sides. I think later on, it will also help me as I can lay the halves flat and take depth gauge readings of key areas that I can transfer to the other half to check accuracy.

I enjoy modelling with bondo, probably because I've used it a lot on 1/1 projects and know how it behaves. I must admit I wouldn't fancy the idea of carving away at a big lump of wood! Filler is very messy and dusty though, so you need somewhere to do it...mums/wives/gf's etc. don't take kindly to having their kitchen ruined - as I've just found out! :o)

I'd also recommend a huge scale like 1/8th. It's very satisfying to see something so grand appear before your very eyes!

Also try to make the body in modular form with various components. I have done just this with the engine rocker fairings as they would be a pain to shape on the body. In the middle of working on them now...will post some pics later, when I'm kicked out the house! :-S

I always found this land record car beautiful in shape and superb in history...several times I dream to scrachtbuild it in 1/16 scale or 1/12 but never got around it, there anothe race car that is neck in neck with this one in the "urge" to have in big scale.....The Miller "GOLDEN SUBMARINE" car....for me and in my personal view another early stunner and one I will do for sure some day in big scale.

I saw recently a modern reinterpretation of the "Golden Sub" in a Hotrodder magazine...the car was left in it's natural metal finish....it was also a stunner!!....your model is really a great inspiration and show what a magnificent model it will be....already IS!!!!!!!!!

Hi Scalemodelfanatic,

Yep, I love the Golden Submarine - it's an amazing piece of design for its time. I've seen the modern version too, but never seen it finished. It would make a great large scale model...what are you waiting for!!! :wink:

I've been out of action for a few days with 'proper manflu' LOL! but managed to get the rocker cover domes done and (badly) photographed the process, just to give folk an idea of one way to approach large model subjects. Hope my suggestions don't patronise readers, but it may help people to think differently about certain modelling techniques. I am a lazy arse by nature, so I will try to find the simplest way to do things to a good-ish standard. If I can cast parts rather than make multiples I will, however, these two parts are a perfect shape for the method below:

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/upload1.jpg

First I measure the parts from my plans and make two plastic card boxes (about 1mm oversize). I can then spoon bondo filler into the boxes and level it off using the box top edges. I tend to let the bondo cure for 20 minutes, then pop it out of the boxes before it bonds too well to the plastic.

I then use one of my favourite tools...double sided tape! Both parts are taped together for sanding to size. The result is exactly matched parts and the extra thickness allows you to get the edges exactly square when sanding. I stick wet and dry sanding sheets to a board (using double sided tape again)and drag the parts to flat sand them square.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/upload2.jpg

I'm lucky that these parts have the same cross-section from end to end. The two parts are separated (good knowledge of the strength of your tape is needed for this) and then they are stuck to a board end to end (using guess what...more double sided tape!). You can use the board edge, or a steel ruler to get them aligned. If the tape is too strong the parts may break when separating them. I cut the tape to widths that I know will hold the parts, but not be too strong to separate without causing damage. If you do have trouble, the join can be soaked in a thinner, or lighter fuel, to dissolve the adhesive (very messy though).

When in position the profile for both parts is sanded to shape using wood blocks with abrasive paper wrapped around - nothing fancy here, as long as the abrasive material is flat. You can see there are air bubbles in the bondo - it's only real downside...grrr!

The parts are then removed, spun round 180 degrees and the process repeated. In hindsight, I could have used a narrower backing board so I could tackle both edges at once - heyho!

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/upload3.jpg

When happy with the profile the parts are removed and the ends of one piece are shaped by hand, constantly checking over the plan.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/upload4.jpg

When one of them looks good, they can be taped together and the second part sanded to match. This looks just like a torpedo from the Airfix Swordfish kit I built as a kid! :o)

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/upload5.jpg

Hurrah, two of them are done and match well. This is really important, even at 1/8th scale - any mistakes just leap out at you! Another plus point about bondo - it can be shaped quickly without a huge amount of different grade abrasive papers - I think, on this I went 60, 120, 400(wet) grit - easy stuff! It can also be polished nicely from a 400 grade finish, needs just a quick rub with a cotton cloth. Not talking perfectly shiny here, but good enough to see reflections and minor faults. This is a boon because it saves having to use primers, guide coats etc. to get a good surface.

These parts will be bonded onto the body buck using bondo again - gives you loads of time to position them correctly and will sand with the same attrition rate as the rest of the buck - try sanding cyano and kit plastic together and you will know what I mean!

Now, get your filler out!!!:)

Wow! I mean, really, Wow! That is all very impressive.

Really impressive stuff! Especially the amount of thought and effort you spend on the picture/lens distortion issues.
The "casting bars of bondo" approach however is really unorthodox :-) If you're happy with it that's of course what counts, but i did tell you about Renshape/Ureol before,or didn't i? :-)

Hi jaykay,

I didn't get on with the Renshape! It's fine for machining, but I don't like working the stuff by hand. Filler seems to be harder and more dense which makes it more, I dunno - 'tactile' I guess.

Plus, I can get the bondo filler blank near to the shape I want by the 'casting', technique rather than cutting big chunks out of Renshape. I'd also need to resort to milling the chunks to size, which for me is cheating! Might as well use rapid prototyping if I went that far!:wink:

Just a few comments prompted by recent posts...

I think the nature of scratchbuilding lends itself to using 'unorthodox' techniques, especially at larger scales. Or maybe it's a case that as the scale increases, so does the range of techniques available to do a particular job. Having made a few small fibreglass components for the 908, I wouldn't want to try making a 1:24 bodyshell from it - but it works fine at 1:8! As you can't easily buy the detail parts for 1:8, there's always the challenge of how you do even the simplest stuff - whether it's switches and instruments, or oil and brake fittings.

With those rocker cover domes, for example, I would probably have made them using styrene tube and greenstuff...someone else might turn them from solid rod...hey - whatever works! When I was making the mould for the 917-10 rear tail I needed two shallow dome sections - plastic medicine spoons were perfect! I think the trick is to see the car as simple forms and shapes, rather than the complex whole - how you create the shapes is part of the fun.

Oh, and I'd be itching to start laying fibreglass on that body pattern!

Good stuff, Cinqster.

SB

Cheers SB and how very eloquently put! :o)

Strangely enough, I have just been rooting about in my plastic spoon collection for something appropriate for the foot dome on the SBHS under tray! Of course, I wouldn't be so gauche as to stick one straight on...I'll mould the inside with yet more filler and use the resultant casting.

Now having a problem with the under tray, as it had some bad panel joins and curves oddly around the engine case (as seen in the side-on period photo). It's very tempting to gloss over certain faults and make that lower swage line straight, but really I should add it because it was probably due to the hasty repairs from the first Daytona crash, so is part of its bio (conservator speak!). Period photo's don't help because it was fashionable back then to airbrush just about every photo of the car! Grrr!

Farking awesome work for a lazy arse!!! Your methods and skills are really fun to watch. You big scale guys working from blueprints to be specific have inspired me to be more critical of myself... I'll usually get a few reference pics, do some squinting and maybe some measuring and if it looked right that was good. Lately I've been trying to figure how to use some CAD and photoshop programs(with no success) to help draw what's in my mind. Keep up with the inspiring work!!!

Hi 914joe,

It may be worth having a look at how illustrators draw from photographs. My preferred program for linework artwork is Adobe Illustrator, but probably just because I'm used to it. What I like about it is that you can import photographs or drawings, scale them and save them as layers to work over. Been trying to use the AI gradient feature too for 3D shading (that is a real PITA though!).

This webpage may be of use to you:

http://www.khulsey.com/demo_1howto.html

I had a quick skim through it and it's the same method I was taught many years ago at college. Find your vanishing points on a photograph and then you can grid out perspective lines and make cubes to work out the relative sizes, positions and proportions of components.

Things can go horribly wrong though, if the reference is not perfect!

Have a look at the cutaway of the SBHS below:

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Cutawaysmall.jpg

I studied this drawing for ages before realising that it is wrong! This is a surprise, as the artist (LaTourette) was an illustrator that had a reputation for his accuracy. Note that the front friction dampers are placed exactly over the front axle. If you know how friction dampers work, you will see this is impossible because the arms should rotate with the suspension movement! I have concluded that he probably produced the drawing 20-30 years after the car was run, as he did most of his famous work during the late 50s, early 60s. He probably based his information on the few available photographs taken at the time. I reckon he used this one:

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/SBHSfront.jpg

See the problem? The friction dampers look like they are directly above the axle, due to foreshortening of the camera lens. On closer inspection, the vertical shock towers are, in fact, behind the axle. I also think the shocks were probably partly disassembled as the arms look like they attach to the axle. I've concluded that there may have been two arms on each side to form a scissor design, which is common on these set-ups. If the lower arm has been removed, the top arm will pull round until something stops it - in this case the axle!

Also, if the shocks were mounted further back then there is an issue with contacting the radiator/ice tank LaTourette has drawn - still trying to solve this one!

In the meanwhile, I have kindly been given some Jabrock...oh yes!!!! I'll use this material for making the bucks for the wheel spats, so hopefully I can press them from alloy. Very rare material now and is used for F1 chassis planks today. My chunk allegedly came from Vickers in the 1950s, so will be used with greatest care and respect!:naughty:

Well, life seems to have got in the way of model making recently! Today, I got the first chance in ages to spend an afternoon doing some machining...I've not used my mill for over a year now!

I thought I'd make a start on the wheel spats, as they are the trickiest part of the car to shape correctly.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Spats1.jpg

I've been experimenting with using 10mm perspex for the masters. Two sheets were bolted together, cut on a band saw and shaped using a rotary sander. I am hoping that the material will be strong enough for both mould masters for resin and as formers to shape aluminium over (at a later date!).

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Spats2.jpg

The template is printed from my plans with the rivet centres hand drilled before milling.

The spats centres are mirrored for each side, - my intention is to make one centre shape which can be flipped over to make both left hand and right hand mouldings from one spat shape. This will have to be done for both the front and rear spats as they differ in shape...grrrr!

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Spats3.jpg

As you can see, the stuff makes loads of mess when cut, but helps the machining process as the edges can be seen using side lighting.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Spats4.jpg

Still not sure whether the perspex will be easy to shape, but I'm hoping a heavy duty sander will do the trick! Updates soon, if all goes well!:)

Excuse the colour balance, but milling machines are a hostile environment for close-up camera shots!

Hope you're all not getting bored with those 1/8th scratchbuilds!... :)

Well, what I have learnt over the last few months?

Errrmmm...can still get on with modelling projects with a wee baby girl on board - yes, you just need the patience of a saint, be able to 'man up' a bit & sell your soul to the modelling gods for those odd modelling hours (and some sleep!).

Currently, it goes like this - 9.00pm start...until fall over time. Seems to work for machining in the garage, though it's freezing cold out there during the evening at the moment. Given the utter crapola on UK TV, it's a no-brainer for me!!!!

Spent ages trying to find any reference for the wheels for this one off beastie, then along came the John Bayer (author of the next Frank Lockhart bio) with this picture of the car without front spats - many thanks!:

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/wheel3.jpg

Now, there's a problem with this photo!

Dickinson never sponsored, or provided tyres (tires) for the Frank Lockhart LSR challenge, so the this picture exists from some tie-up that never happened!

My theory is this; during this period the airbrushing of photographic stills was almost mandatory. The Dickinson logos would have been painted in by hand over the photo prints, as Mason Tires supplied the Lockhart tyres...budget tyres which may have ended his life!!!

I'm pretty sure from the photo that the wheels are correct as the outer rims were bolted on to aid tyre fitting - I decided I had as much visual info as I was ever going to get!

A while back, I made the decision that I would use my excess resin for casting before it all goes off. The stuff I use has an open shelf life of 6 months! ~To this end, I pour a mixed batch into any container of a useful shape. For the wheel blanks, I have found that the Bodyshop lotion containers perfect for most 1/8th wheels! In this case I drillled out the roughed shape with a 10mm bit and super-glued a 10mm brass rod for the mounting in the lathe chuck. I have already marked the inner hole and will machine this out on my mill at a later date.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/wheel2.jpg

Ignore the tyre area at the moment, as I'm using the flat front tyre face for depth readings for the wheel rim...the rear face will be machined for a 2mm wheel centre thickness, so I have to be quite accurate with it.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/wheel1.jpg

Here's a close up - I'm chuffed with the results as the resin machines well at any speed, doesn't blunt my cutting tools and is silent during cutting...very relaxing to work with!!! :)

Note too that it looks like it's spinning at 500 rpm, just because it looks so smooth. Trust me - it really is static!!! :0

Those wheels are looking very good

Nice seeing some progress... I enjoy watching your methods:iceslolan I'm in the same boat as you with small kids & no heat in the garage. I have to leave my fillers & glues in the house to stay fluid. I've had a few days that it was too cold to use glue and had to find things to solder to keep busy. Maybe we'll find some more spare time in @ 20yrs:uhoh:

Glad to see you here again!
Go ahead, it's a very, very nice project...
Dan.

Wheel & tyre off the list....yehaaa!

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/wheel4.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/wheel5.jpg

:)

Started on the Miller V16 block yesterday. This is the front engine cover half built:

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Enginefrontcover.jpg

Made the outer casting for the gearbox too. The fins on the underside are purely a figment of my imagination as I have no reference for this area, but it's likely fins were used for cooling. Drain plug and top cover to add next!

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Gearboxunderside.jpg

More work on the engine block:

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Engineblock1.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Engineblock2.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/Engineblock3.jpg

Frank Lockhart working on the bare castings of his own engine:

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/SBHS/FrankLockhartU16.jpg

How do you get everything so smooth? Special equipment? When I scratch with plastic the joints are a mesh the wholes are square etc. :-)

Looks brill! I guess the curbside plans went out the window, eh? Inevitable... ;-)

ianc

absolutely amazing detail! and the thread was informative as well with the photography discussion and history lesson! :D

I agree with previous comments. It's a good thing to throw all rusted methods aside from time to time and look at modelling a different way. Maybe a little unorthodox sometimes, but who cares? As long as it works ... :wink:

Thanks for posting!