Wow! I like the look of this. I will be following your progress. I built the old Merit 1/24 version many years ago, beautiful race car.
Best of luck.
Regards, Steve.
cinqster
09-30-2011, 06:19 PM
Nice one Dan, you're diving into another 1/8th project already!!! A beautiful looking car too. :cool:
Old school modeling, another pop corns can plizzzzz.
Do you think to use the wooden shape as "mold" to form metal sheets?
jaykay640
10-06-2011, 03:05 PM
Old school modeling, another pop corns can plizzzzz.
Do you think to use the wooden shape as "mold" to form metal sheets?
I was wondering that too. Otherwise i would have used some renshape. That wood seems like a tough thing to file and sand.
cinqster
10-06-2011, 05:56 PM
Dan,
Without wanting to suggest things you may know already, did you think about making the body in two halves? It was suggested to me on my first project and I thought it wouldn't help, but have gone that method on my latest project and it works for me. It allows you to concentrate on getting the first half correct, then you can do the second side referring to the first. I find it helpful to lay the two halves out flat and next to each other so they are mirrored - I can then work back to front and compare the sides. Hope this makes sense?
I like the old school wood by the way! I'm about shape some bodywork with MDF ;-)
Scrible
10-07-2011, 08:08 AM
Great, one of my favourit racing cars ever, will follow with much interest.
PROPELLER
10-10-2011, 10:18 AM
Hi all and thanks!
Gionc, old school by old man! And yes, it's my first metal forming attempt...
Jackay, renshape, why not? But very difficult to find in France, and very expensive!
Cinqster, yes it makes sense! But this way is just easier for me...
I must say that since my last post, despite the little "visible" things, few (!)
hours of work between the two phases ...
You will see, all lines of structures (only on the left side ...)
are present. Some were taken three times ...
Why?
Most of my material is based on photographs.
I have found these lines [i] from all angles [/ i] properly ...
And some are weird, those of the back!
However, I caught up thus errors in volume ...
Nice work Dan!
Have you checked out 'The Complete Car Modeller 2' by Gerald A.Wingrove? He built himself a very cool louvre press - a really over the top machine, but it may give some further ideas!:smile:
unipart
11-01-2011, 08:56 AM
To cinqster,
If I remember I think there was a better description on this in the last edition The Complete Car Modeller, but I only have the original one.
Here is an german guy who build an fantastic pocher fiat.
Scroll down till the end and you can see his craftmanship.
Maybee its an inspiration for you?
Kind Regards
Christian
PROPELLER
11-03-2011, 10:52 AM
Hi all!
Cinqster, yes, I did ... Thank you very much Capri-Schorch too, but these two "masters" working on flat parts and independent!
Still no louvers, but the surface becomes presentable ...
The biggest defects were taken by hammering inside and then sanding!
The final settings for the louvers are being done ...
Dan.
gionc
11-04-2011, 02:45 AM
It's fantastic see it to grow up step by step. This is the way masters like Conti created they mithic works.
Anyway I don't understand the metal kind choice: why alu? You'll meet several troubles trying to seam it (despite it is not impossible, there are low temperature -300°- rods to seam alluminium). Why not copper -or brass-? You'll form easily and at least seam toghether....
Fantastic, my dream still rest in a box.... one 1/8 GTO, or even a P4....
CrateCruncher
11-04-2011, 05:02 PM
Great thread and nice progress on a fascinating car! I tend to agree with Gio concerning the use of aluminum, however. While it will look beautiful on the inside surfaces it's going to be a hassle. I don't even know how you attach panel pieces together, epoxy? I hope you get it to work because I'd like to use aluminum too.
But don't rule out experimenting with some copper sheet. The stuff is soft initially allowing you to absorb all the detail of your buck but then work hardens as you stretch it into it's final shape. It's easy to soft solder joints too.
Good luck on a fine project!
PROPELLER
11-08-2011, 10:59 AM
Hi all!
To gionc and CrateCruncher, aluminum, why? Because the real car has an aluminum body... This is not the easiest, I agree!
For the cut side (above the exhaust),
the master did not pass over the my (small) milling machine ...
You remember in Mc Gyver?
Never mind, mounting the cross table of the drill press!
I don't think there's anything here I would want to even try to do myself! The effort that's gone into making the bonnet louvres alone makes me realise that I'll never be able to make a decent model of my Caterham 7 - they're a big enough pain to polish properly in full-scale, let alone to make in 1/8. Aluminium panels...brass chassis...and now you've got Cinqster's MDF fumes to deal with too!
Needless to say, I have been watching with interest, and will continue to do so...
SB
PROPELLER
11-20-2011, 10:23 AM
Thank you, SB!
Rest assured, I am unable to glue two pieces of styrene itself properly! And on my Jeep Grand Cherokee (V8), no louvers ...
Well, chassis more and more...
Out of interest Dan, how thick is the brass sheet that you used for stamping? I know that you annealed it first, but did you stamp it cold, or still hot? I want to do the same thing with aluminium, but imagine it will be a nightmare to do!:screwy:
jaykay640
11-29-2011, 01:18 AM
Uh, yes! That is impressive indeed! Looks very cool!
I wanna do that... in 1:43 :-)
PROPELLER
11-29-2011, 12:19 PM
Hi gentlemen!
Cinqster, the brass sheet is about 0,3mm, stamped cold. Annealing works with aluminum, but I never try this...
Really enjoying this thread - keep at it!! One thing though, it looks as if there is more of a rake on the dashboard frame than what you have - yours does look a bit upright, or this just perception from the photo?
