A race program born out of resentment. And a $20 million resentment in the 1960's no less!

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_4051.jpg

Greetings! I've already been working on this for a while and finally decided to create a post. My goal is to use most of the kit but add a few things mainly from styrene and turned/ machined metal. I've read quite a few reviews and critiques of Trumpeter's kit. I agree with some of the criticisms but also totally disagree with others. I'll explain later.

And a one, and a two......

I removed all the parts from their sprues and grouped them based on their location on the car. Yes, there's a ton of parts that needed, in my opinion, the chrome finish removed. This was one of first things I did. I then assembled the whole model using thinned white glue, dismantled and soaked all parts in warm soapy water. This really helped me decided where and how much detail I wanted to add.

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_4052.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_4052.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6553.jpg

From the get go, I knew I wanted the front clip to clam-shell. Before I started modifying anything, I sat down and drew some ideas on paper and decided on a plan of attack. I discovered the most important thing was to identify where it would pivot. I put the tires/ wheels on and located where everything would attach. The challenge is the pitch of the nose. Too far back, the nose will bottom out before the clip is all the way open.

The black, inner walls assemble underneath-

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8252.jpg

I made catches from styrene and attached them at the front of each piece then test fit each one temporarily installed. Each one had to be sanded down to match the curved profile of the nose bottom.

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8256.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8253.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8250.jpg

Then, I marked where to drill holes so rod could be inserted underneath the location of where the radiator will go-

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8249.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8236.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8246.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8237.jpg

Next, on to the rear clip, errr, the bonnet, I guess...... After test fitting, I realized I needed to pull out the hair dryer-

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6562.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6561.jpg

The problem is it doesn't want to sit very well. This was probably my biggest issue with this kit. I didn't like the fact it didn't sit flush and there isn't anything that it clasps to like on the real car. The kit latches are a part of the chrome tree, they're glued to the bonnet. I decided to machine latches from aluminum and kill to birds with one stone.

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6569.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6568.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6570.jpg

The latch bases were made from brass. The latch and base were connected using music wire soldered in place. Also, the rear was modified so there was room for the base to be attached.

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8225.jpg

Lots of test fitting, many choice words, about 40 bullets bitten and...........

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8231.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8230.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8229.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8234.jpg

Latches catch music wire now embedded in the body all around. Also, fully open-

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8244.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8223.jpg

Cheers for now- thanks for taking a look!

Very beautiful kit which we can modify to be even more complete. I admire the care, the cleanliness and the arrangement of your work plan.
Good assembly to you, I am you in your work

Eric

A very excellent start to this build. I completed mine last year and agree about the problems you're addressing.
I'm not a scale machinist as you so my solutions are far more humble. I scratchbuilt much of the rear suspension to get a better look. I added details where visible. I did not solve the clamshell as you did so attached it shut. The oil hatch is open-able and detailed within.
If it's any help to you here's my WIP. Hope you find it useful: :
http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=34339&hl=%2Btrumpeter+%2Bgt-40+%2Bwip&fromsearch=1
I paid particular attention to the ride height, cockpit, engine bay and finish. I found great reference to be a huge help.
If I do another, I would shim the rear clip bottom edges with .010" stock to get a better shut line-your latches are great but I don't have that talent. A warning about pre-fitting: I found that when the cockpit tub was installed, and the roof section pressed over it, the mating line at the sill was difficult to get flush. I think another solution to the fit of the rear clip is to remove material from the inner upper edge where the clip rests on the roof tab-allowing the lower edges to seat more flush. General fit elsewhere on mine was good. Since completion, I've made small refinements such as replacing the clip hold down lanyards with .006" wire and small paint touch ups.
Look forward to your progress and solutions-I just may do another 'better' one...:uhoh:

Interesting car and what looks to be an inspiring build. I'll be following this one,

ianc

Excelent built program..

I will be watching.
Nice work shop.

Thanks to all for your replies. Sorry about the pics! I now know what to do to correct the issue.

Merlin, I've read and used your article frequently as a point of ref. so, many thanks for pointing out these other potential hazards. I did a lot of research so far including previous builds, like yours, by other modelers and forums for the real GT40's. I've had the pleasure of seeing and hearing a few of these beautiful race cars up close including the one at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum. I'm glad Trumpeter made the investment to bring this kit to us in 1/12 scale.

I'll try to have more posted this weekend. Again, thanks everyone for taking the time to send your kind words.

John

This will be intresting ! I did the #5 LeMans car last year, but will do another version later. Wich version are you going to do ?
Thomas

nice build so far! :)

and those tools and paints all laid out neatly...wow. :D

Thanks Guys. I'm going with the kit version, at least, for now. I like the #5 and #1 option decals available but there's something about the black with those gold toned rims that really appeals to me. This may change........

Thanks Guys. I'm going with the kit version, at least, for now. I like the #5 and #1 option decals available but there's something about the black with those gold toned rims that really appeals to me. This may change........
Be advised that if you're striving for accuracy, those other numbered chassis have some differences to what you get from Trump. Fuel pumps and cockpit details are examples. Get good reference for the exact car you're modeling and scratchbuild what's different.
Yes, 1046 looks great in black but the restoration changed a few things from the '66 LeMans configuration-like the roll cage came after, at Daytona.

Sonoma,
Thinking back on my build, another area for caution is the fit of the rear clip after the inner arch panel is bonded to it. It will either spread or pull the clip in tighter, changing it's shape.
If you haven't gotten to that point yet-trial fit the clip in place after the arch is white-glued and firmly clamped together.
Then check to see if your clamps still give a tight shut line.
Good luck.

Sonoma,
Thinking back on my build, another area for caution is the fit of the rear clip after the inner arch panel is bonded to it. It will either spread or pull the clip in tighter, changing it's shape.
If you haven't gotten to that point yet-trial fit the clip in place after the arch is white-glued and firmly clamped together.
Then check to see if your clamps still give a tight shut line.
Good luck.

Thanks again, Merlin. Actually, the inner arch is fitted in the photos posted. I spent some time beefy up the outer edges with styrene after I rounded the rear clip with the hair dryer.

Yeah! I'm in on watching this build - I have one in the stash - John

This is on my list to build this year also. I like how yours is coming together. I love the body latches, great job.

Are you going to use the kit tires? Icon modelers makes some nice tires in resin for this kit that are more accurate and much more better looking than the kits tires

.........Speechless

A hopeful update?

Hey everyone, finally have some things to post.

To answer f40, I'm so glad you asked the question. I completely forgot these were going to be available. I'm seriously considering replacing the tires, although I'm concerned about real rubber vs. trying to achieve the appearance of real rubber. No matter what, I will be including the spare wheel in the boot.

First off a few pictures I forgot to include originally. The mock up of the latches:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_7808.jpg

Also, these were done a while back and haven't decided if I'll use them on the base of the oil coolers:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_4056.jpg


This next section deals with another area I wanted to get done sooner than later for test fitting purposes.

The rear suspension pieces- I didn't like the scale appearance:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_4059.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_4057.jpg

I wanted something closer to this without stretching me too far out of my comfort zone:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8357.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8315.jpg

First, I made a simple jig so I could, when in doubt, check my work:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8304.jpg

Now, I've never done rod ends before, so take it easy on me. I used this tool for the first time, a radii cutter, and it worked really well. It took few trial and error seesions but I becoame more confident:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8301.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_6544.jpg

These were flattened using a divider head making sure the top and bottom were parralel:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8319.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8318.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8320.jpg

Then, using the lathe, I was able to turn down the bolt side and create a little more that tear drop shape:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8321.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8322.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8325.jpg

By the way, these weren't used- they were too big. So I did it again! Ha Ha! Next, locking nuts (everything is simulated, not threaded):

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8336.jpg

One of the rods:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8334.jpg

Time to see if they fit. Some let downs for me, but all in all, I was satisfied:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8340.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8343.jpg

I thought long and hard about how I was going to make the suspension brackets and decided to use my rotary table. Both were done at the same time:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8346.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8350.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8351.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8355.jpg


And, test fitted. I still needed to file and sand after this picture to get the overall shape I wanted:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8359.jpg

Here some pictures of how I did the sway bar. With 3/32 tubing, I used the kit part as a template. First, I inserted 1/16 tubing into the 3/32 tubing trying to aleviate any kinks. Also, a $4.00 purchase at the hobby shop procurred those non kink, bending tools (springs):

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8361.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8362.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8363.jpg

Of course, I had to test fit and see how it looked. I'm not happy with the appearance of the sway bar- too big in my opinion. I'm going to do it again using smaller diameter tubing:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8364.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8368.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8369.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8371.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8370.jpg

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8366.jpg

And, with everything bundled up:

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8373.jpg


That's it for now, folks.

Did somebody say Stewart Warner?

Nice work...you can't have too many lathe photos in a thread IMHO! :)

Have you ever tried grinding your own cutting tools? I've often wondered how after-market model ball joints are produced. Came to the conclusion that they must use a tool with a stepped semicircular cut-out (bit like the profile of your 2nd suspension bracket photo) that does it in one cutting operation? Plan to have a go at making one, sometime!

Great modeling.
Keep the photos coming.

Thanks to all.

I'm convinced they're using CNC. I have made my own cutting tools and, as I progress in this hobby, I'm sure I'll make some specialized tools depending on what I'm doing.

That is some great work.Some very nice machining going on there.This will be a beauty when its finished.

Stunning work so far! very brake re making the suspension, but man does it look better! This is gonna be the best GT40 around!!!

It's a shame to hide all that work under the bonnet.

It's a shame to hide all that work under the bonnet.

ditto.

maybe you have plans of making a clear back half instead? :)