i have a 92 voyager that recently started this problem of running until it is warm and then stalls out. When it is stalling out I try to keep it running by pumping the gas pedal and it seems to want to go and then stumbles and stalls.
This is a 3.3 ltr
fuel pump pressure seems high at 55 psi when it runs, as it begins to warm and then stall the pressure jumps around even going to 59 psi.
I have also noticed after it stalls out if I turn the key off and then on and then off and on again it will start and run for about 10 seconds.
If left alone for a while and cooled down it will run again for about 15-20 minutes and stall out.
Also after it has had time to sit about hour or two, I turn the key to the on position and fuel pressure jumps to 5 psi, then I turn the key off and then on again, it jumps to 20 psi or so. Again when i turn the key off and on it jumps to 40-50 psi.
I have done the key dance and no codes. I have also had a scanner check and nothing came up.
I have been told that the specs for pressure output of the pump should be 49 psi. Does that mean that the minimum pressure out put is 49 psi. Also would 55 psi at the fuel rail during running good or bad, how would fuel pump pressure have affect on fuel rail reading. I guess what I am trying to say is would high out put from fuel pump be a bad fuel pump?

I believe the fuel pressure spec is 41-49 PSI.

Have you removed the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator? Does the pressure change when disconnected? SHould jump about 10PSI when disconnected.
Is there any fuel in the line or does it smell like gas? The fuel pressure regulator is what controls the pressure after pump.

Try checking fuel pressure by removing fuel filter and connecting tester there and see what pressure is.

Try tapping the fuel tank when engine stalls and see if that jars the pump into running again. When the pump warms up it can lock up and when cool will again work.

How many miles on vehicle?

I believe the fuel pressure spec is 41-49 PSI.
Have you removed the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator? Does the pressure change when disconnected? SHould jump about 10PSI when disconnected.
Is there any fuel in the line or does it smell like gas? The fuel pressure regulator is what controls the pressure after pump.

Try checking fuel pressure by removing fuel filter and connecting tester there and see what pressure is.

Try tapping the fuel tank when engine stalls and see if that jars the pump into running again. When the pump warms up it can lock up and when cool will again work.

How many miles on vehicle?
235K miles
fuel pump has been replaced about two years ago. That is not to say the pump couldn’t be bad.
I started it up and disconnected the regulator vacuum hose and pressure went from 53 to 60 psi,
have not checked pressure from pump before filter as it is getting late here and I am tired. Will check this tomorrow and get back with you.
Thanks Phil

I found out the problem, it was a bad connector at the crank sensor. The connector had loose broken down insulation on wires closest to the connector ends, Also I found water in the connector itself and contacts very corroded. I replaced the crank sensor and hard wired it in removing the connector. Because this connection is close to the exhaust and water tubes the wires and the connector broke down. Also because it was close to the water lines it would heat up some and after the vehicle warmed up the connection would loosen and come apart enough to loose signal to the crank sensor,
Thanks

I've seen this, many times. Fuel Pump goes, stresses the ASD relay common w the 3.0s the 3.3's, AUto Shut Down Relay is designd to shut fuel AND Spark, in the event of a short in even t of too much resistence in the FP circuit. Anyway it's usually on the fender next to the btt, three relays, starter, AC Fan Relay and ASD relay, OR un te Power Dist Box on newer MNodels (in which vase ir's marked) it's a $15 part, II took to replacing whenver I found a fuel pump failure- just like u check the inertia switch on a Ford that might been bumped?

I found out the problem, it was a bad connector at the crank sensor...
Same problem and solution for my former '96 GC/LE and my current '98 Sebring Convertible (sensor was bad, too). Replacement of the crankshaft positioning sensor is a PITA -- had to jack up the car, remove the driver-side front tire and loosen the bolt with a verrrrrrrrrry loooooong extension from inside the wheel well. #$%$#! Chrysler engineers. Ahem. I'm repeating myself after nearly 400,000 miles on Chrysler vehicles. :) Peace out my fellow Chrysler Brothers!

Thanks guys for my lesson of the day!